[{"content":"The single most common question we get in March: \u0026ldquo;Did I wait too long to prune my roses?\u0026rdquo; Almost always, the answer is no — and a confident spring cut is what sets up a season of strong canes and big blooms.\nWhen to prune The classic rule of thumb: prune when the forsythia blooms and the buds on your roses start to swell. For most temperate gardens that\u0026rsquo;s late winter to early spring, once the hardest frosts have passed.\nThe four-step cut Remove the dead and the diseased. Anything brown, brittle, or shriveled comes off first. Open the center. Take out crossing or inward-growing canes so air and light reach the middle. Cut to an outward-facing bud, at a 45° angle about 1 cm above the bud. Seal and tidy. Clear all clippings from the bed — they harbor disease over the season. A note on tools Sharp, clean secateurs make a clean cut that heals fast. Wipe the blades with alcohol between plants if any show signs of disease. That one habit prevents most of the problems we get called out to fix later in the year.\nWant us to handle it? See our services.\n","permalink":"https://pruning-blog.pages.dev/posts/spring-rose-pruning/","summary":"A simple, season-by-season guide to pruning roses for healthier plants and bigger blooms.","title":"Spring Rose Pruning: When and How to Cut for the Best Blooms"},{"content":"Bare branches make winter the easiest time to see a fruit tree\u0026rsquo;s structure — and dormancy means the tree can take a meaningful cut without stress. For apples and pears, this is the season that decides next autumn\u0026rsquo;s harvest.\nGoals of a dormant-season prune Light and air to the center. Fruit ripens where the sun reaches. A strong, open framework of well-spaced scaffold branches. Removal of the \u0026ldquo;three D\u0026rsquo;s\u0026rdquo;: dead, diseased, and damaged wood. What to cut Start with anything crossing, rubbing, or growing straight up (water sprouts). Then thin crowded areas so a bird could, as the old saying goes, fly through the tree. Avoid removing more than about a quarter of the canopy in a single winter — over-pruning triggers a flush of unproductive growth.\nWhat to leave Stone fruit is different. Cherries, plums, and apricots are best pruned in summer, not winter, to avoid silver leaf and bacterial canker. If you\u0026rsquo;re unsure which camp your tree is in, that\u0026rsquo;s exactly the kind of thing worth a quick ask before you cut.\nNot sure where to start? Book a visit.\n","permalink":"https://pruning-blog.pages.dev/posts/winter-fruit-tree-pruning/","summary":"Why the coldest months are the best time to shape apple and pear trees — and what to leave alone.","title":"Winter Pruning for Fruit Trees: The Dormant-Season Reset"},{"content":"We\u0026rsquo;re a small, local pruning service specializing in roses, decorative ornamentals, and fruit trees. The work is seasonal and hands-on: the right cut at the right time keeps plants healthy, productive, and beautiful for years.\nThis blog is where we share the season-by-season tips we\u0026rsquo;d give a neighbor over the fence — plus the occasional before/after from a job we\u0026rsquo;re proud of.\nEdit this page in content/about.md.\n","permalink":"https://pruning-blog.pages.dev/about/","summary":"Who we are and how we work.","title":"About"},{"content":"What we do Rose pruning — spring shaping for hybrid teas, climbers, and shrub roses. Decorative \u0026amp; ornamental pruning — hedges, topiary, and specimen shaping. Fruit tree care — dormant-season structural pruning and summer maintenance. Get in touch Call (555) 555-0142 or email hello@example.com for a free quote.\n","permalink":"https://pruning-blog.pages.dev/services/","summary":"Pruning services for roses, ornamentals, and fruit trees.","title":"Services"}]